Autumn in Bedford: Embankment Walks + Cosy Cafés
While I’ve grown to appreciate all the seasons in their own way, autumn is one that sits a little bit higher than the others. The changing leaves, the chill in the air that nips in the wind, and the golden light all stir up feelings of nostalgia. It reminds me of my childhood, the start of the school year and an underlying excitement of something new starting.
Autumn in the UK is something I romanticized in my head a long time and the first time I visited the UK, it was the end of September into early October. Autumn on this Isle, from England to Scotland, stole my heart immediately.
There is suddenly a day in late September where the afternoon light changes. It’s suddenly more golden. I experienced the same in Seattle, and Seattle has some gorgeous autumn days when the sun is shining, but the golden light here is much more prominent, presumably because we’re quite a bit further north than my favorite PNW city.
In my three autumns living here in England, I have seen some beautiful scenes and in Bedford we are lucky enough to have a beautiful river walk called the Embankment. It is one of my favorite things to do this time of year, take a stroll down the Embankment.
Depending on where you start and where you end, you can end up in the Castle Road area which has a few cosy cafes, or you can end up in the town center with a few more options but more spread out.
Where to Park and Start Your Walk
If you can find parking along the Embankment, it’s a great spot to park and keeps you central to The Embankment. From there you can pick your adventure and walk along the Embankment to the east, which you can follow through to Priory Country Park. If you want a long walk with nature and birds, this is a great route to take. Or head west toward the town center. The Embankment is quite a long stretch so depending on where you park and what your goal is, your route will be a little bit different.
At the height of Autumn though, you’ll want to stroll down the riverbank, cross over one of the bridges and have a meander around. In the sun, the golden leaves are incredible and the riverbank is incredibly scenic and lovely.
You can also park north of the Embankment in one of the neighborhoods, like the Castle Road quarter and start your walk through a cute scenic neighborhood with beautiful houses and end up along the river. And for mums looking to get out of the house, the Embankment itself is pram friendly and easy to navigate.
Cafes Within Walking Distance of the Bedford Embankment
The Longhomle Bedford
Situated on the south side of the river, The Longholme is easily walkable if you don’t want to venture up into the neighborhoods for coffee and want to sit near the river. If you want more than a coffee and cake, they serve breakfast and lunch, covering a variety of different things. You’re also next to Boating Lake, a small little body of water that is normally host to a number of different birds. On one visit, I saw a cormorant, a blue heron, tufted ducks, and an Egyptian Goose. So it’s a great spot to sit and take in the nature.
Papillon Coffee House
Take a wander up from the Embankment to the Castle Road area just above Russell Park and you’ll find Papillon Coffee House. An extremely cosy spot for breakfast, coffee, tea and cakes. You can either grab your coffee to go or sit in to partake in a larger menu. Also stop by to see how they’ve decorated their entryway for the season. It’s always gorgeous.
SAY Doughnuts
More toward the town center along St. Cuthebert’s St, which is home to many wonderful independent shops in Bedford, is SAY Doughnuts. They opened around the same time Jhey and I started dating and we would have a little coffee and doughnut date when I was passing through to or from Berlin. Their doughnut menu changes monthly and they have seasonal and holiday specials. If you’re not feeling like a coffee, they also do an absolutely delightful vanilla matcha latte. Have your coffee and doughtnuts in, or, depending on the weather, grab them and find a bench along the river just down the street.
While not technically a cafe, the owners of SAY just opened a deli and bakery around the corner from the doughnut shop called Lou’s. Stop in for an incredible variety of savory and baked goods including giant cinnamon buns and sausage rolls.
VanillaTree
The only place in Bedford that does amazing homemade bagels, VanillaTree has an assortment of breakfast options, bagel sandwiches, cakes and good coffee. Head up St. Cuthbert’s street away from the river to find their bright yellow storefront. Sit in for ultimate cozy coffee shop vibes. They often sell out of bagels on the weekend, so stop in early to make sure you snag one. The Salt Beef is my favorite but I’d save it for after a walk, as you’ll want to take a nap after devouring it.
The Embankment
Not a cafe and classified as a pub, the Embankment is situated right along the river with a garden terrace. This is a perfect spot to end your walk no matter where you started. Stop in for breakfast bright and early or relax with a pint or Aperol Spritz if that’s more your style. It’s a lovely spot, in a beautiful old building with incredible food, and arguably has one of the best terrace spots when the sun is shining. Therefore it is usually busy.
An Autumn Ritual
Going to grab a doughnut and a coffee and sit along the river in the autumn sunshine is one of my favorite ways to slow down and appreciate the changing of the season. I used to walk a big loop when my favorite plant shop was still on Castle Road. I’d stop in and grab a candle or a small plant, something to take home to make things feel more cozy and also to support the independent shops in town.
With our 9 month old in tow now, I’m not sure what this ritual looks like. The plant shop is no longer open but there are a number of museums we could explore. The walk along the river though remains a grounding activity when you just need to get out into fresh air and don’t want to go far. Bedford is very lucky to have such a beautiful walk right in its heart.